Rear trailing arm bushes - replacement in-situ possible?

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WGB

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Armed with a couple of cool hours before the day heated up I decided to put my 6.9 on the hoist and remove the bolts from the trailing arm bushes - lower the arms on a transmission jack (one of the beauties of working with the hydraulic suspension is no springs to compress -as previously stated by Styria) - pull out the old and push in new bushes with nut bolt and sockets - and bolt it all up.

Didn't even bother taking the rear wheels off.

I was foiled as the outer bolt on each side doesn't have enough clearance between subframe and sill to be pulled out without first dropping the subframe.

A solution is to remove the nut then cut the head off the bolt and push it back the other way but before I do this has anyone any experience with changing these bushes and useful information to share.

Bill
 

Styria

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Hi WGB, I am not sure if you could reverse fit the bolt that you are referring to. Something tells me that it shouldn't or can't be done but it is a while since I have dismantled any of those components, so you might have to be the WILLING guinea pig.

It reminds me of the long bolt that secures the idler arm assembly to the chassis bracket - in order to remove that assembly, one has to move the Starter Motor out of the way. ...and again, the fairy tells me that one cannot refit that bolt from the bottom with the securing nut on the top. Over to you, Regards Styria
 
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WGB

WGB

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Hi WGB, I am not sure if you could reverse fit the bolt that you are referring to. Something tells me that it shouldn't or can't be done but it is a while since I have dismantled any of those components, so you might have to be the WILLING guinea pig.

It reminds me of the long bolt that secures the idler arm assembly to the chassis bracket - in order to remove that assembly, one has to move the Starter Motor out of the way. ...and again, the fairy tells me that one cannot refit that bolt from the bottom with the securing nut on the top. Over to you, Regards Styria

You can fit the idler bolt upside down with no problems - mine was already fitted that way when I changed it and fitted a new kit so I never had to touch the starter motor. Only problem was that I slipped while torquing it and fractured a finger - and it really hurt.

Point taken - I will check the clearance for fitting the outer bolt in reverse fashion before I get into one of those "difficult to proceed" moments. The inner one is a tight fit as it probably comes close to fouling the differential flex disc but that is easier to remove and replace than the whole body:D and I have a spare with new nuts and bolts.

Bill
 
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