Fuse Box Diagram for W116

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300SDude

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So......yesterday I was trying to fix my right turn signal light and it doesn't blink (the front one is out). So I tried the hazard button to see if it would blink with that on. Yes, it did blink, but the button got stuck and I could not get it to pop back up.

After fiddling with it for a minute, I finally got it to release and the hazard lights turned off.

Drove it all around today and had no problems, but when I went to turn-on the headlights tonight, I had none. The parking lights come on, but no headlights or fog lights. If I turn on the high beams, they all work.

Are these lights hooked to the same fuse? (regular low beams and the hazards). The piece of paper that tells me what the fuse locations are is missing, so I am kinda blind as to what goes to what.

Does anyone have a copy of the fuse box diagram?

Thanks,
300SDude
 

abl567

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Check all your ground wires, bad earth connections are the cause of many electrical gremlins. Sorry I don't have a fuse box diagram as I don't have a 116 and I don't think a 109 one will help you but a quick search on this forum may well find one
 
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300SDude

300SDude

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I tried to do a search on here and couldn't find one.

My drivers side window decided to get stuck half way down as well. I guess I am going to have to pop the center console and pull the switch and see if I can clean it up some. Actually, I think all those buttons need cleaned, lol. I had never used the hazard button before and it seems sticky like soda got spilled on it or something to make it sticky. The lights have not worked since I fiddled with the hazard button.

Any suggestions on cleaning these connections? (I have never pulled-up the console, so I have no idea what the switches look like).

Where are the relays for these switches?

I guess I will go out and see what is up with them today since at the moment, this is the only car we have that is running. (Until Friday when we get the Suburban back from the shop). My older Suburban decided it has a dead cell in it's battery, so it doesn't want to start, and of course, I don't have another side-post battery in anything else we own. The little Nissan truck I have has broken tail light lens' and the headlights don't work on it either, lol.

At the moment, I just wish I could get the window back up, for this car is about ready to go into storage for the winter. (We're supposed to get snow today). I can fiddle with the light thing all winter long, as well as pull my wheels and re-paint the rims.

Thanks for your help guys, it is greatly appreciated!

300SDude

Update: I got the headlights to work, I just cleaned the fuse, lol. (Is there something I can clean the whole fuse box with? It's grimy in there!)

I took the center console out and switched the front window plug with the rear one and the window still doesn't work. (When I hook-up the back window to the front switch, the rear window does go up and down, so it is not the switch). I am thinking it is somewhere in the wiring to that window. Maybe I am going to take the door panel off and see if the connections to the window are dirty. After that, I don't know what to do.........

LOL, I wish there was a way I could crank the window up manually like the manual sunroof thing in the trunk!
 
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Styria

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Hi Dude, I am indeed sorry to hear of all your annoying little problems. Window(s) not working is really a matter of considerable annoyance, but it is (or can be) part and parcel of owning our 116s and 107s.

First of all, the fusebox. If you look, you will see that there are sixteen terminals. On our OZ models, and it should be the same for you guys, No. 15 is the fuse that controls front right and rear left windows. No. 16 is the fuse for front left and rear right. They should be red fuses with a 16 amp rating.

As a matter of help, the other fuses:

1. Clock, trunk/roof light front and rear, hazard warning light. 8 amp fuse
2. Auxiliary fan, auxiliary heating. 16 amp and 25 (blue) fuse.
3. Blower Motor - 16 amp fuse.
4. Glove compartment light, stop lamp, turn signal lamp, back-up lamp, instrument cluster (automatic transmission) (tachometer), levelling system indicator, lamp (cruise control), fuel supply shut-off valve. 8 amp fuse.
5. Parking/tail/standing light right, licence plate/instrument/hazard warning flasher/shift indicator illumination, (head lamp cleaning unit). 8 amp. fuse
6. Cigar Lighter 25 amp fuse.
7. Parking/tail/standing light left. 8 amp. fuse.
8. Windshield wiper, washer pump, horn, optical horn (air conditioning compressor), (relay head lamp cleaning unit terminal 86 (fanfare). 16 amp.
9. Fog lamp, rear fog lamp. 8 amp. fuse.
10.(relay auxiliary fan term. 86
(relay if power window motors term. 87 a) (sliding roof) 8 amp.
11.High beam left. 8 amp.
12.High beam right, high beam indicator.
13.Low beam left
14.Low beam right. The last three - all 8 amp. fuses (white)

15 and 16 you already have details of.

The switches on the console are not serviceable - as a rule, and it is just about impossible to clean the contacts. In the long run, best to buy new units.

If you remove the door trims, you can hook up a battery to the two wiring terminals - attached to the inner door skin to see if the window will move up or down. Also, if your console switch is operational, and the window will not move, you should be able to hear the window motor spinning. They are long lasting. For the time being, this should be enough. I will re-check your post later today when I get back home. Regards Styria
 
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300SDude

300SDude

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Thanks Styria!

I did get the panel out far enough to see if I could see the terminals for the window, but it appears to be a mounted unit (with screws) and the wires running out of it.

I cannot hear the motor doing anything when you use the switch. If it was trying to work, I could pull the window up. (I have had to assist it before). But no, I d not hear the motor running.

I did clean all the switches in the console as well as the console itself (It was pretty grimy). All the switches move freely now and at least that front left one doesn't stick any more as well as I got the hazard light to work properly and not get stuck any more.

I am still trying to figure-out how to get the door panel off around the inside door latch so that I can take the top piece of the armrest off so that I can get to the rest of the door.

I see why my door locks don't work correctly either. there is obviously something missing between the actual door lock and the vacuum mechanism that it attaches to. I can move the mechanism and work the door locks, so I know the vacuum is working.

It just started snowing here, so I am going to go move the car in the garage for now. I'll go mess with it some more tomorrow.

Thanks again for your help!

300SDude
 

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