Garage should be good. It was a stupid design that was actually quite large, but due to strange shaped internal walls could only fit 1.8 cars in a space that should have been ok for three. I designed it so three cars will fit in properly and you don't need to do a forty point turn getting in and out.
Today I had a quick look at the reclining rear seat. It comes out with two 10mm bolts.
there was nothing jammed in the mechanism, the fuses were intact and the motor was plugged in.
I could not year the motor try to move at all when I pressed the button on either side. Next step is to review the wiring diagram and if that does not help disconnect the motor from the mechanism to see if it will run (perhaps something is jammed).
I took the seat out again and had a look at the adjuster.
Using a power probe, there was constant 12v to one of the pins of the motor, and nothing at the other. When the switch is pressed, the voltage goes away.
This doesn't seem right. The motor works by sending current in different directions depending on the way you want the switch to go.
However, If i used my power probe and apply 12v + ground to the plugs, the mechanism will move in whatever direction I want.
I assume therefore I have a ground or switch problem. I needed to fit a child seat, so I have put the seat back into the non-recline position for the seat.
Looking at the EPC, it looks like there are a few different part numbers for the switches. Normally it tells you what has been superseded by another one.
The first two part numbers are NLA, but the second two are not. Since W126 parts are going NLA so rapidly, I may pick up a couple of these switches so I have them on hand if needed.
Next week the W126 goes in to have the guides and sprockets done (chain and tensioner was done without this for some odd reason), motor mounts and a few other misc things.
I plan to have the car ready for the joint Mercedes / RR club drive in two weeks.
I just got the SEL back from having some work done on it.
The most important one was having the guides replaced.
The previous owner paid good money for the chain and tensioner to be changed. For some reason the guides and sprokets were not replaced at the same time. I can understand not replacing the sprokets (although given their cost I am not sure why you wouldn't) but it seems almost criminal to do the job and not replace the guides. The guides that were pulled out of the engine were not broken by they were a deep coffee colour so they were certainly not changed. While it was open, had them put on new camshaft oiler fittings.
At the same time I had the thermostat and engine/transmission mounts changed. Makes a huge difference as the old ones were as flat as pancakes.
I had purchased a good used leather steering wheel to put on the car, but somebody who worked on the car previously must have used a rattle gun to do up the bolt as it was stripped. I had that changed while it was in at the mechanic too.
This car was introduced in the COVID19 projects thread, but I thought it would be worth starting a specific thread on this car. I had to go to the shops today so I went and got the 560 to give it a further drive and take some better photos.
My older (5 yr old) daughter and I went and cleaned and added leather conditioner to the seats which already feel a lot better. I'll need to do it a few more times over the next couple of months/weeks.
A beautiful car. The best cutting compound for paint restoration is a product called T cut. I used to detail cars (Mercs, Rolls, Lambos, Ferraris, GT's) & T cut original gave by far the best results. No swirls & when using a good quality polish (Nu finish I suggest), the paint shine is remarkable & very easy to maintain. Removes all oxidation/accumulation on the paint & reveals the true depth of colour.
Its an outstanding product & is used by professional car detailers. It is extremely gentle on paint unlike other harsh commercial cutting compounds. If a buffer is used with only the weight of the tool, no additional pressure ( I use a cordless Makita ) the results are outstanding. We used to use a polish that after application to the car, brake fluid could be poured on the bonnet, left to sit & it would just wash off.
Along with the cars, we would polish race boats, helicopters, planes & due to the reduction in drag coefficient, they would achieve faster speeds, higher lifts from rotors & less time washing & maintaining.