Topklasse Discussion Board  
Home Forum Legal/Privacy Media/Picture Gallery Websites and Links Technical

Go Back   Topklasse Discussion Board > THE CRAFTSMAN - TECHNICAL DEPARTMENT > INTERIORS

INTERIORS Its whats on the inside that counts... from dashboards to door handles you will find it here.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 3rd November 2011, 02:27 PM
300SDude's Avatar
300SDude 300SDude is offline
Aficionado
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hunters, WA. (USA)
Posts: 228
Default Fuse Box Diagram for W116

So......yesterday I was trying to fix my right turn signal light and it doesn't blink (the front one is out). So I tried the hazard button to see if it would blink with that on. Yes, it did blink, but the button got stuck and I could not get it to pop back up.

After fiddling with it for a minute, I finally got it to release and the hazard lights turned off.

Drove it all around today and had no problems, but when I went to turn-on the headlights tonight, I had none. The parking lights come on, but no headlights or fog lights. If I turn on the high beams, they all work.

Are these lights hooked to the same fuse? (regular low beams and the hazards). The piece of paper that tells me what the fuse locations are is missing, so I am kinda blind as to what goes to what.

Does anyone have a copy of the fuse box diagram?

Thanks,
300SDude
__________________
http://www.beadedpatterns.com

1979 Mercedes 300SD (diesel/WVO)
1994 GMC 4x4 Suburban (diesel/WVO)
1986 Chevy 4x4 Suburban (gas)
1975 Chevy 4x4 3/4 ton Pickup (gas)
1984 Nissan 4x4 X-cab Pickup (gas)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 3rd November 2011, 03:00 PM
SEL_69L's Avatar
SEL_69L SEL_69L is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,314
Default Re: Fuse Box Diagram for W116

I would also check the relays that control these items. I have had these go u/s.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 3rd November 2011, 03:07 PM
abl567's Avatar
abl567 abl567 is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,052
Default Re: Fuse Box Diagram for W116

Check all your ground wires, bad earth connections are the cause of many electrical gremlins. Sorry I don't have a fuse box diagram as I don't have a 116 and I don't think a 109 one will help you but a quick search on this forum may well find one
__________________
W109 300SEL
#2723 6.3
W202 C240
W220 S500
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 4th November 2011, 01:42 AM
300SDude's Avatar
300SDude 300SDude is offline
Aficionado
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hunters, WA. (USA)
Posts: 228
Default Re: Fuse Box Diagram for W116

I tried to do a search on here and couldn't find one.

My drivers side window decided to get stuck half way down as well. I guess I am going to have to pop the center console and pull the switch and see if I can clean it up some. Actually, I think all those buttons need cleaned, lol. I had never used the hazard button before and it seems sticky like soda got spilled on it or something to make it sticky. The lights have not worked since I fiddled with the hazard button.

Any suggestions on cleaning these connections? (I have never pulled-up the console, so I have no idea what the switches look like).

Where are the relays for these switches?

I guess I will go out and see what is up with them today since at the moment, this is the only car we have that is running. (Until Friday when we get the Suburban back from the shop). My older Suburban decided it has a dead cell in it's battery, so it doesn't want to start, and of course, I don't have another side-post battery in anything else we own. The little Nissan truck I have has broken tail light lens' and the headlights don't work on it either, lol.

At the moment, I just wish I could get the window back up, for this car is about ready to go into storage for the winter. (We're supposed to get snow today). I can fiddle with the light thing all winter long, as well as pull my wheels and re-paint the rims.

Thanks for your help guys, it is greatly appreciated!

300SDude

Update: I got the headlights to work, I just cleaned the fuse, lol. (Is there something I can clean the whole fuse box with? It's grimy in there!)

I took the center console out and switched the front window plug with the rear one and the window still doesn't work. (When I hook-up the back window to the front switch, the rear window does go up and down, so it is not the switch). I am thinking it is somewhere in the wiring to that window. Maybe I am going to take the door panel off and see if the connections to the window are dirty. After that, I don't know what to do.........

LOL, I wish there was a way I could crank the window up manually like the manual sunroof thing in the trunk!
__________________
http://www.beadedpatterns.com

1979 Mercedes 300SD (diesel/WVO)
1994 GMC 4x4 Suburban (diesel/WVO)
1986 Chevy 4x4 Suburban (gas)
1975 Chevy 4x4 3/4 ton Pickup (gas)
1984 Nissan 4x4 X-cab Pickup (gas)

Last edited by 300SDude; 4th November 2011 at 03:15 AM. Reason: Update
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 4th November 2011, 06:44 AM
Styria's Avatar
Styria Styria is offline
The Godfather
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 8,644
Default Re: Fuse Box Diagram for W116

Hi Dude, I am indeed sorry to hear of all your annoying little problems. Window(s) not working is really a matter of considerable annoyance, but it is (or can be) part and parcel of owning our 116s and 107s.

First of all, the fusebox. If you look, you will see that there are sixteen terminals. On our OZ models, and it should be the same for you guys, No. 15 is the fuse that controls front right and rear left windows. No. 16 is the fuse for front left and rear right. They should be red fuses with a 16 amp rating.

As a matter of help, the other fuses:

1. Clock, trunk/roof light front and rear, hazard warning light. 8 amp fuse
2. Auxiliary fan, auxiliary heating. 16 amp and 25 (blue) fuse.
3. Blower Motor - 16 amp fuse.
4. Glove compartment light, stop lamp, turn signal lamp, back-up lamp, instrument cluster (automatic transmission) (tachometer), levelling system indicator, lamp (cruise control), fuel supply shut-off valve. 8 amp fuse.
5. Parking/tail/standing light right, licence plate/instrument/hazard warning flasher/shift indicator illumination, (head lamp cleaning unit). 8 amp. fuse
6. Cigar Lighter 25 amp fuse.
7. Parking/tail/standing light left. 8 amp. fuse.
8. Windshield wiper, washer pump, horn, optical horn (air conditioning compressor), (relay head lamp cleaning unit terminal 86 (fanfare). 16 amp.
9. Fog lamp, rear fog lamp. 8 amp. fuse.
10.(relay auxiliary fan term. 86
(relay if power window motors term. 87 a) (sliding roof) 8 amp.
11.High beam left. 8 amp.
12.High beam right, high beam indicator.
13.Low beam left
14.Low beam right. The last three - all 8 amp. fuses (white)

15 and 16 you already have details of.

The switches on the console are not serviceable - as a rule, and it is just about impossible to clean the contacts. In the long run, best to buy new units.

If you remove the door trims, you can hook up a battery to the two wiring terminals - attached to the inner door skin to see if the window will move up or down. Also, if your console switch is operational, and the window will not move, you should be able to hear the window motor spinning. They are long lasting. For the time being, this should be enough. I will re-check your post later today when I get back home. Regards Styria
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 4th November 2011, 06:59 AM
300SDude's Avatar
300SDude 300SDude is offline
Aficionado
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hunters, WA. (USA)
Posts: 228
Default Re: Fuse Box Diagram for W116

Thanks Styria!

I did get the panel out far enough to see if I could see the terminals for the window, but it appears to be a mounted unit (with screws) and the wires running out of it.

I cannot hear the motor doing anything when you use the switch. If it was trying to work, I could pull the window up. (I have had to assist it before). But no, I d not hear the motor running.

I did clean all the switches in the console as well as the console itself (It was pretty grimy). All the switches move freely now and at least that front left one doesn't stick any more as well as I got the hazard light to work properly and not get stuck any more.

I am still trying to figure-out how to get the door panel off around the inside door latch so that I can take the top piece of the armrest off so that I can get to the rest of the door.

I see why my door locks don't work correctly either. there is obviously something missing between the actual door lock and the vacuum mechanism that it attaches to. I can move the mechanism and work the door locks, so I know the vacuum is working.

It just started snowing here, so I am going to go move the car in the garage for now. I'll go mess with it some more tomorrow.

Thanks again for your help!

300SDude
__________________
http://www.beadedpatterns.com

1979 Mercedes 300SD (diesel/WVO)
1994 GMC 4x4 Suburban (diesel/WVO)
1986 Chevy 4x4 Suburban (gas)
1975 Chevy 4x4 3/4 ton Pickup (gas)
1984 Nissan 4x4 X-cab Pickup (gas)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
6.9 wiring diagram - Early and Late Models WGB TECHNICAL INFORMATION 1 8th June 2011 09:15 AM
6.9 wiring diagram - Early and Late Models WGB TECHNICAL INFORMATION 2 8th June 2011 09:07 AM
Lower your W116? [Read: 'Pimp Your W116'] SELfor50 MECHANICALS 8 22nd April 2008 01:07 AM


All times are GMT +10. The time now is 04:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright Topklasse 2020