Topklasse Discussion Board  
Home Forum Legal/Privacy Media/Picture Gallery Websites and Links Technical

Go Back   Topklasse Discussion Board > THE EXPERIENCE - DRIVING PLEASURE > MERCEDES W116

MERCEDES W116 Discussion specific to the W116 model

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 6th February 2012, 10:38 AM
Oversize's Avatar
Oversize Oversize is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,034
Default Rust

Can anyone explain why the W116 is prone to rust, opposed to the W126? I don't think I've seen a rusted out W126, but maybe someone can dig up a nasty pic of a 380?
__________________
Mark

01 Ford AU 5L (Deep Blue)
89 560L#322020
88 500L#451660-P
88 420L#422477-P
87 420L#324309-P
87 420L#-P
88 420L Euro#-P
88 420L#-P
86 560L#235896-P
79 6.9#5541 (Red Bull)
79 6.9#5398-P
78 6.9#4248 (Skye)-P
79 6.9#3686 (Moby Dick)
78 6.9#1776 (Dora)
77 450L#067010-P
75 450L#028414 (Gold Nugget)-P
57 Buick 73A (Titanic)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 6th February 2012, 10:45 AM
WGB's Avatar
WGB WGB is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth Western Australia
Posts: 1,274
Default Re: Rust

I raised the same question a few years ago and was inundated by photos of rusted out 126's from the USA.

The 126 seems more rust resistant - probably by design - although not so good around the rear window in some models.

Anyway teh 126 is going through it's unloved stage so we'll see how well they fare sitting out in the weather for a decade or so.

Apart from the usual chassis areas 116's do strange things like rust out the internal door frames before they rust through the outer skin.

one explanation I was given was that in the 70's the factory had to buy a quota of steel from East Germany (presumably of lesser quality) which was used in the less well seen places like door frames.

Bill
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 6th February 2012, 11:08 AM
SEL_69L's Avatar
SEL_69L SEL_69L is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,115
Default Re: Rust

About what time were whole body frames hot dipped galvanised?
Volvo were the first to adopt this practice, but I don't know when.

From my observation, R107's seem to be more prone to rust than W116's.

BY far the best defence agsinst rust is to garage a car throughout it's lifetime, when not on the road.

Obviously, a damp climate is detrimental as far as rust is concerned.

In some parts of the World, rust is not a a major priblem, because the climate is dry. South West United States is a case in point. If you are going to import a muscle car from the 'States, make sure that it has spent most of it'es life in this regoin. I nthis case interior upholstery and paint degradation are of more concern. Again, a garage is the best defence.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 6th February 2012, 11:42 AM
BenzBoy BenzBoy is online now
Noble
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sydney - Centre of Civilisation
Posts: 6,425
Default Re: Rust

I think you might find that galvanising car bodies, as opposed to individual panels, only began in earnest in the 1980s. During the 1980s plastic wheel arch liner panels were used and this also helps explain why a W126 is less prone to rust.
These day, MB galvanises both sides of a panel.
However, there are some strange spots that do rust - for example, under the rear window in the box panel between the glass and boot.
As for the Soviet Steel Myth or the Great Story of Eastern Bloc steel - I'll belive it the day one single person can provide me with evidence of it actaully occurring.
Regards,
Brian
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 6th February 2012, 11:51 AM
Oversize's Avatar
Oversize Oversize is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,034
Default Re: Rust

I'd also stay away from a car that's spent much time living down by the beach!

Perhaps the W126 had less holes through exterior panels (to mount badges etc) and there was liberal use of cavity wax? I remember working on them and if I was doing repairs to the inside of a door, I'd always end up covered in wax.... But inside a W116 sill there's no sign of wax. Did MB improve paint technology for the W126?

The body deadener hasn't helped the W116s, or the W107s. As a result, the firewall, rear quarters and floors suffer. By now most of it has cracked and if water gets in, it acts like a sponge and holds the moisture. I'd remove it all (and leave it out), except it'd probably result in a very noisy cabin. So it's best to replace it with new material of the same thickness (especially in the floor areas).

Interestingly the GFs 2009 CLC has sound deadening material on the inside of the wheel arches. It looks very similar to the stuff they use on truck mudflaps for water spray supression. And it also looks like a great way to trap water and feed the dreaded rust....
__________________
Mark

01 Ford AU 5L (Deep Blue)
89 560L#322020
88 500L#451660-P
88 420L#422477-P
87 420L#324309-P
87 420L#-P
88 420L Euro#-P
88 420L#-P
86 560L#235896-P
79 6.9#5541 (Red Bull)
79 6.9#5398-P
78 6.9#4248 (Skye)-P
79 6.9#3686 (Moby Dick)
78 6.9#1776 (Dora)
77 450L#067010-P
75 450L#028414 (Gold Nugget)-P
57 Buick 73A (Titanic)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 6th February 2012, 03:08 PM
SEL_69L's Avatar
SEL_69L SEL_69L is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,115
Default Re: Rust

The question needs to be now asked:
Did MB start hot dip galvanising at the start of W126 production?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 6th February 2012, 03:32 PM
BenzBoy BenzBoy is online now
Noble
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sydney - Centre of Civilisation
Posts: 6,425
Default Re: Rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEL_69L View Post
The question needs to be now asked:
Did MB start hot dip galvanising at the start of W126 production?
Now that is a very good question.
AUDI began doing so with the 100CD in 1987/88 and Benz was about 8 years later as they were already sealing their cars very, very well from the ealy 1980s on. Alfa Romeo began in 1989.
I've got the M-B historian on the phone at the moment and he will check the exact date and get back to me.
Regards,
Brian
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 6th February 2012, 03:39 PM
BenzBoy BenzBoy is online now
Noble
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sydney - Centre of Civilisation
Posts: 6,425
Default Re: Rust

Also relevant - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123...ml#post2346730
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 6th February 2012, 10:32 PM
Tony66_au's Avatar
Tony66_au Tony66_au is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Gippsland, Vic
Posts: 2,348
Default Re: Rust

Boys boys BOYS!

Environmental factors aside so many 126's were washed with religious fervour at high pressure blast washes as the 80's were after all the advent of Carlovers car washes.

And 1200 PSI hydraulic blasting alkaline fluid into crevices on cars where it cant be rinsed away will rust the living crap out of a car in fairly short order and it is a tribute to German engineering that their cars have withstood this assault for so long.

Although I never washed my 300SEL anywhere but at home I did hit it a few times a day with Spot Free rinse followed by a nice Chamois dry.

And even this had a detrimental effect
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 7th February 2012, 09:37 AM
SEL_69L's Avatar
SEL_69L SEL_69L is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,115
Default Re: Rust

I have access to a 1500 psi commerxial water blaster, but I have never used anything but plain water with it, although I also have acces to a complete range of commercial detailing chemicals.

I use a a good quality shampoo to remove road grime from my drive car, but I use a sponge and water only on my 6.9, because it otherwise does not get dirty enough, being for 'toy' use only. So rust caused by alkaline detailing chemicals should not be an issue for me.

Decaying vegetable matter in the plenum chamber area below the front widscreen is also a major cause of rust in thia area. Rust wise, it is a poor area of design in the W116.

The failure to remove mud, especially in the wheel arches, can be a significant cause for rust. In the unlikely event that my 6.9 gets mud on it, the use of a water blaster provides the answer to the problem. Just take the car for a run of at least 5 klm aftre washing, to dry it out.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 7th February 2012, 10:31 AM
WGB's Avatar
WGB WGB is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth Western Australia
Posts: 1,274
Default Re: Rust

Porsche started in the mid 1970's - probably because their early 911's rusted very quickly.

They had a 911 tub unpainted sitting as a featyure outside the factory for a long time.

For all that galvanising is only as good as the first accident repair.

Bill
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 7th February 2012, 05:30 PM
Styria's Avatar
Styria Styria is offline
The Godfather
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 8,045
Default Re: Rust

I've sort of shared company with many 116s and some 107s over a period of some sixteen years, and well before that, in the '80s or was it '70s, I also owned a Finnie 250 - no 'S', no 'SE', just the latest of the Finnies with the shortened front guards and the normal round lights as on the 230s and 190s.

I really do think that most rust problems with our cars relate to some very common design deficiencies in some areas. Regarding the 116s, the design of having a channel in the bottom of the doors with the rubber tucked in, is a poor design feature. The channel should be done away with. Interior floors - I really think that the stuff applied to the rear floors again is not a good feature, because the coverung can hide the rust developing under it. We won't even talk about the front and the foam covering that's glued to the floor and when, once wet, you'll never get rid of the moisture. Rear wheel wells - don't know why they can so easily be suspect to rust. I mean, after all, it is good solid steel and there is a drain hole in each well. I guess we can blame father time for that one. Rust around the screens - in my view, the contours of the rubbers in the bottom corners is three quarters of the problem. On the front, in the bottom corners on each side, and similar in the rear, with the added rust harboring traps provided by the anodized screen surrounds. Not a brilliant design, as well as being difficult to remove and then re-fit.

Next, the sound proofing on the firewall is not ideal - it does trap moisure which, again is reluctant to be removed. There are some other areas as well, such as sunroof/sunroof frame but, all in all, considering the age of the cars and the fact that so many suffer from neglect in the later years, a well maintained and garaged car should be quite trouble free. Regards Styria
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 7th February 2012, 07:52 PM
SEL_69L's Avatar
SEL_69L SEL_69L is offline
Aristocrat
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,115
Default Re: Rust

Relative to what Styria has said, and that dampness only departs with reluctance, I think the best you can do for your 116 is to let it roast in the sun on a hot day for 12 hours or so, to completely dry it out.

After that, keep it out of the rain whenever possible.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rust, Rust and the Meaning of Life Lukas EXTERIORS & BODY REPAIRS 22 19th January 2011 02:22 PM
Rust Karl MERCEDES W107 15 4th March 2009 07:36 AM
Does UK mean rust? Does Aus mean UV? GreaseMonkey EXTERIORS & BODY REPAIRS 9 27th January 2009 07:06 PM
Rust in Gleaming Beauty Styria EXTERIORS & BODY REPAIRS 9 21st June 2008 12:26 AM
What do you use for rust proofing? WGB EXTERIORS & BODY REPAIRS 13 7th April 2008 02:37 PM


All times are GMT +10. The time now is 03:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright Topklasse 2017