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MECHANICALS With a 30 year-old automobile, there will always be discussion here - maintenance, modifications and mechanicals.

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  #1  
Old 22nd August 2008, 07:59 AM
Lukas Lukas is offline
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Default Leaks and Bushings

Too the 6.9 for a RWC yesterday - given that it had a few fluid leaks, I wasn't really expecting a pass, and indeed it didn't. The bounce list was:

1) Tint too dark (is 35%, must be 5%)
2) Engine oil leak
3) P/S fluid leak
4) Shock bushes need replacing

Took it to an excellent mechanic recommended by Cam2 (thanks Cam - he is the real deal) afterwards, who joined the dots for me in tracing where the leaks were coming from. Best of all, despite taking an hour of his time and use of his hoist, no charge - outstanding.

As I'm off o/s for a few months shortly, will probably leave the car as is for now (rather than attempt to fix the issues and re-try the RWC in the 1 month allowed), and do it properly in summer when I get back.

Solutions:

1) It came with the tint, and was registered in Vic with it (but may have been registered pre-tint). I'd like to leave it, but if not, removing is a annoying but simple process. Might leave it on for when I re-try for a second RWC (different tester, as recommended by mechanic), and if they still bounce it, take it off then. FWIW, visibility is fine from the inside - no darker than what's caused by the tint on a public bus. Does anyone know how tints are tested scientifically (some sort of light gauge)? They never measured it, so they either did it by eye or managed to find out from the Vic RTA (I think they called them as part of the inspection).

2) Think this is the front main seal, but further cleaning will tell. There was also an oil leak where what he thinks is a vacuum line disconnected itself from the side of a rubber hose at the back of the RHS rocker cover. Line is re-connected, and again will clean and see.

3) Steering box is covered in fluid, presumably P/S fluid, and presumably it is the cause of the leak. Again, will clean and see where it's coming from, which will determine the course of action. Will also re-read all the recent steering box related posts on TK. I had imagined the steering box to be mechanical only, eg no fluid inside save lubrication grease - probably inspired from the Commodore (which has no power steering). PS fluid level is fine, but car hasn't been driven much.

4) Think this refers to the concertina dust boots that cover the hydraulic arm part of the shocks at the rear, and/or the little dust caps at the base of the shocks at the front (only on one side, other side recently replaced). Does anyone know if these are available by themselves? They'd better be Are there any other rubber bushes at the base of the shocks?

In short, plan is to clean, observe, and then order parts for the mech to fit.

Car drove fairly well (not comparing to another 116, just to my expectations) - acceleration is prompt and discreet (from the inside), and it is indeed magic carpety in handling. Brakes well too - stand on the brakes and it really stops - couldn't induce a skid though.

Suspension warning light works too - thought it didn't (doesn't come on when knob set to raised), but the mech's hoist was the type that uses arms rather than ramps, allowing the wheels to drop and then the car to sit very low afterwards - all quite interesting.

There is a small kick from the auto on changes, am told there is an adjustment somewhere for this - no rush though. When flooring it from a standstill and uphill (my version of the Italian tune), the box does seem to change up too soon from a sound of the engine point of view, but again, no biggie.

Surprisingly to me, it does indeed handle quite well for a luxo barge - could happily throw it around roundabouts and corners fairly swiftly, no issues. No seasickness either.

Lukas
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Old 22nd August 2008, 09:18 AM
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WGB WGB is offline
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Default Re: Leaks and Bushings

I purchased rear rubber boots for my 6.9 last year - $76 each from dealer.

Kick down points in auto easily adjusted at kickdown rod in rear of V.

Hard change may just be vacuum modulator (adjustment/replacement) or even old oil and lack of use.

Bill
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Old 22nd August 2008, 12:13 PM
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Michel Michel is offline
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Default Re: Leaks and Bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukas View Post
Suspension warning light works too - thought it didn't (doesn't come on when knob set to raised), but the mech's hoist was the type that uses arms rather than ramps, allowing the wheels to drop and then the car to sit very low afterwards - all quite interesting.
Lukas
Before you raise a 6.9 with hydraulic suspension on a two-post hoist, where your wheels would be dangling, you need to 'lock' the suspension in the centre position with the knob on the dash.

Otherwise it drops and you end up with hydraulic fluid all over the place
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Old 22nd August 2008, 01:22 PM
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SELfor50 SELfor50 is offline
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Default Re: Leaks and Bushings

I'm glad that nick was able to help you out with most stuff!!

I can easily show you where the kick down rod / adjustment is in the engine bay.

As for the 'harsh' gear changes.. If the 6.9 auto box is like the 450 one then, they do tend to be a slightly harsher box.. I mean, if driven sedately the gear changes are smooth.. but I know if I put the boot into it it really snaps the gears on change.

6.9 owners, is this the same for the 6.9's??
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Old 22nd August 2008, 02:02 PM
Lukas Lukas is offline
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Default Re: Leaks and Bushings

Thanks for the tip Michael - no fluid spill on this occasion. Apart from possible fluid spill, does it damage the struts / something else to let the wheels dangle? It actually seemed like a good way to get at those rubber boots that need replacing.

Bill - thanks for the info, will pursue.

Cam2: the change was actually smoother when I was flooring it, only slightly though. It isn't particularly harsh in either circumstance, but noticeable, and I would hate for the royalty in the back to feel anything like that
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Old 22nd August 2008, 02:31 PM
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TJ 450 TJ 450 is offline
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Default Re: Leaks and Bushings

It won't damage the system, but it will behave strangely afterwards. I haven't encountered the mess situation as yet and I don't bother with the lock because the system is only coming apart on my car anyway.

Tim
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Old 22nd August 2008, 04:06 PM
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WGB WGB is offline
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Default Re: Leaks and Bushings

So long as the bump stops are intact and you don't have overly large wheels and tyres it doesn't matter that the suspension is not locked when raised.

In fact when opening and working on the system so long as the central sphere is pressurised before raising it will depressurise it for work without doing anything else.

Where you can get into trouble is if you have a jack under it which was placed when the car was suspended the car will return to it's bump stops and the jack may become stuck under the car and the only way to move it is to start the motor and get the car to lift itself.

I can't imagine it would cause a fluid leak under any circumstances where components are in good condition.

I very rarely lock my suspension when lifting it on my hoist but when I lower it I stop at about the normal ride height and start the engine until it is pumped up again.

I have on a couple of occasions driven it short distances with the suspension locked and it is like the "sport" setting on my ML - tightens it up nicely. I'm sure it is not good for it but it sure feels nice.

Bill

Last edited by WGB; 22nd August 2008 at 04:37 PM.
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