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MECHANICALS With a 30 year-old automobile, there will always be discussion here - maintenance, modifications and mechanicals.

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Old 4th April 2009, 04:40 PM
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Styria Styria is offline
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Default How to clean 6.9 engine

A formula designed by Styria - whether it be effective may well be open to question from various sources, but naturally you try your best according to ability, knowledge and equipment. The following procedure I have carried out on Gleaming Beauty, and will now also be carried out on the Astral Silver 6.9.

Obviously, the ideal time is when the heads have been removed, as it exposes the bores, the timing chain apertures and, in due course, you drain the sump and also the engine oil reservoir. It needs to be remembered that with Gleaming Beauty a thorough clean was absolutely essential on account of the milky sludge (Mixture of oil and water) that had found its way right through the system. Another part of that job entailed the procuration of a new radiator core. The equipment I use are my compressor, engine degreasing gun, and degreaser as well as kerosene.The Silver 6.9 was somewhat more accomodating in that respect.

Kerosene does not hurt any component, and I brush it on and in where ever locations possible, and I use it not only in the engine bay, but also in the bores, head bolt holes, in short, I drown the whole lot in the stuff. Now, remember, I never turn the engine from TDC once I commence dismantling. Another important job that must be carried out is to thoroughly clean all headbolt threads in the engine block with one of the headbolts itself. If ever you remove the heads of any engine, you will note considerable corrosion, and some rust with some of them, and when the time comes to refit the heads, it's comforting to be assured that all bolts will screw in easily. So, basically that takes care of the engine block other than cleaning the water jackets.

You then need to turn your attention to the sump and oil reservoir. Naturally, you need to remove the old oil which by now would be contaminated by some cooling water that's found its way into the bores (from head removal), but also from blowing out the cooling water passages - you just cannot avoid it. Furthermore, you will be staggered by the amount of debris in the water jackets - you get it out by the kilo full - virtually. (Just think how much more efficient your cooling system will run after that - yeah, nothing like good major maintenance).

Now is the time to remove the sump plug, as well as the drain plug from the oil reservoir. Chances are that the bottom of the reservoir is going to be caked solid, so out comes the screw driver to create an opening - your finger will just not do it. Also, now is the time to high pressure spray kerosene into the small sump. You might use about a liter or two - don't worry, it all just comes straight out. Re-fit the sump plug. Now, after refitting the reservoir drain plug, pour kerosene into the reservoir. Also, with your high pressure engine degreasing gun, spray the interior of the reservoir. Whatsmore, after having done that (most kerosene goes straight to the small engine sump), use air pressure with an extension fitted to the air hose to move as much of the sludge as possible - again, more kerosene and also time to again drain the mixture of sludge and kero from the small sump. Believe me, it is worth it, and you'll feel even better if you do it two or even three times. Your normal garage won't go to that trouble (too time consuming), but it really works. On Gleaming Beauty, after some running and changing oil and filter twice, the engine oil, even after say about 3k. kilometers, is just about as clean as a whistle - and great oil pressure to boot. It was all worth it.

You can follow a similar procedure with an engine NOT dismantled - I would just term it an extended oil and filter change. Regards Styria
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Old 4th April 2009, 06:47 PM
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SEL_69L SEL_69L is offline
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Default Re: How to clean 6.9 engine

Having access to the full range of detailing equipment and detailing chemicals I suppose I am in an advantageous position, which includes a 3000 p.s.i. water blaster. With any old car such as a w116, I am loathe to use the water blaster in the engine bay from above. There are too many old small rubber boots associated with (especially) electrics. Using the water blaster elsewhere else is OK such as underneath the car, and in the wheel arches. For my 6.9, I drive it into a wash bay that has 15mm concrete nibs at the end of the wash bay, where I place steel portable ramps; I pump the suspension up and drive it onto the ramps against the concrete nibs, which gives about 15 inches clearance under the gearbox. I spray a non alkaline degreaser, then use the water blaster. I am quite respectful of the rubber boots on the struts, and only hose those. As Styria does, kero is fine on top of the engine but is safer to hose this area, then dry with a compressed air gun.
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