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Oversize
10th November 2011, 08:22 AM
Well I priced some filters yesterday and boy what a difference between the cheapest and the dearest:

MB: $100,
Imparts: $75+tax,
Hanvic: $35+tax.

Yes the Hanvic ones don't come with O-rings (or washers), but there's no way MB can justify $65 for them! Apparently Hanvic haven't carried the O-rings for so long (probably since I last ordered them) that they didn't even know the part number or the price! And I don't know why they wouldn't carry them, as the elements are almost completely useless on their own (you risk having substantial oil leaks if they're not replaced with the element).... I was fortunate that I had the forethought to order 10 O-rings from Hanvic quite a while ago, so I just order two elements and they'll be delivered to my door today or tomorrow for around $85.

More of a concern was the fact that none of the suppliers had any filters in stock and they had to come from interstate. So judging by the lack of filters on the shelves here, how many 6.9s and 6.3s are left in Victoria? :rolleyes:

CraigS
10th November 2011, 09:22 AM
There is a list on the M100 site of filters for M100 engines that I compiled a few years ago.

I received an email this week from someone I know at MB Australia regarding pricing, and this is what he said:

"I know the pricing structure is frustrating, and I guess more people today are using the internet, and I can only assume our pricing will change".

For obvious reasons, I will not name the individual.

Lukas
10th November 2011, 12:03 PM
Autohaus AZ: US$15.75, no tax, but add shipping from the US: Oil Filter (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=mlzhl055lcjsctjsiy4onryb&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1367603@450SEL&year=1979&cid=20@Engine Parts, Seals %26 Gaskets&gid=5340@Oil Filter)

Includes washers and o-rings!

Pricey to ship just one, so order lots.

Lukas

260ebenz
10th November 2011, 09:18 PM
Oversize did you try Repco or Auto Barn for oil filters?

Prices you mentioned do seem expensive for oil filters!

Shop around and compare prices can't hurt to get more than one quote for parts.

Cheers.

Oversize
10th November 2011, 10:19 PM
I wonder now if MB confused M100 with $100!!! ;)

Tim I seriously doubt they'd carry them, but it can't hurt to try.... Ah the trials n tribulations of having a rare(ish) car!!! :p

Styria
11th November 2011, 03:53 AM
I normally charge about $42.00 for an oil filter. I found out long ago that the filters came without the 'O' rings, and I bought a supply of those from an independent supplier, so that's never been a problem. Those filters, incidentally, are twice the size of normal 'every day' filters, and probably four times the size of the filter for the Gen IV Chevy engine (5.7 liters) in the Statesman. As a matter of interest, that filter trades for about $10.00 and comes all the way from Poland to be sold by the Holden dealers as original equipment or spare part.. Regards Styria

N.B. A quick word about those small in-line fuel filters for the Rover V8 - the original, from Rover, with beautifully crafted connections, would last at least ten years - yes, ten. A Ryco replacement, with lousy push on rubber fittings from Repco, would have a working life of no more than 12 months. Timing Chain - Rover original - 20 years at least, Repco 'roller' replacement - worn out after eighteen months. So you can imagine, I am not a real friend of the Repco Company.

Oversize
12th November 2011, 06:43 AM
Well two filters arrived yesterday and they have the O-rings and washers in the boxes! I'll have to go back into the shed to get the brand, but I know they're not Mann. All for the grand total of $84.04 delivered, so I think I did pretty well. I'm lucky I can get these at trade prices... Now I'm off to put em on with some lovely new engine oil. :)

260ebenz
12th November 2011, 07:54 AM
Excellent news Mark if the filters not Mann what was the name of the filters?

What oil are you using?

Cheers.

Oversize
20th November 2011, 08:13 AM
I'm headed out to the garage today so I'll have a look. I use Shell oils now, but I wasn't a fan until I started work for Mercedes. The slightly pink tint of the fully synthetic and the slight green tint of the semi had me intrigued. I'd tried Castrol, Mobil and Penrite previously but after the Shell stuff solved a rattle problem I had in my old ZB Fairlane, I switched to Shell and haven't looked back since. Mobil 1 resembles water too much for my liking. The only problem with Shell is that they offer different viscosities but the colour of the packaging remains the same. The tinters are different now and it doesn't flow out of the bottle the same as it did when I first switched. All very confusing. I'll check the bottle and the filter brand shortly...

Oversize
21st November 2011, 09:05 PM
Well here's two pics of the filter which should explain all:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6317.jpg
http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6318.jpg

And the oil that I use:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6316.jpg

Not to be confused with:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6315.jpg

Or (no I wouldn't use this in a MB). I was going to use this in my Ford, but I decided against it, as it's not semi-synthetic:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6314.jpg

260ebenz
21st November 2011, 10:25 PM
Have seen both brands of filters before at my MB Mechanics he uses the same filters.

Using Fuchs oil with a 10W40 oil viscosity as per my MB owners manual the manual says to use 10W40 6.5ltrs.

Previously used Valvoline for oil changes in the 260E.

Have not tried Penrite oil or Mobil1 in the 260E for an oil change would either oil be good to use for my model Mercedes?

Isn't Fuchs oil German made and is it a good oil to use?

Mark what is the Shell oil like you are using?

Nelson Bay will have our own Super Cheap Auto store which opens in two weeks just in time for Christmas I will be buying my oil from there.

It's good to have a Super Cheap 10mins away from my place instead of a 45min drive to Newcastle.

Cheers.

Styria
22nd November 2011, 03:48 AM
Hi Timmy, be careful with Supercheap Auto. They're not always that super cheap. Of course, you can put Repco in that category as well, and I think that Burson Automotives take the cake - the priciest of all. I buy my oil from a small retailer locally, and I have been able to squeeze him a bit for lower pricing. It's funny though - eighteen months ago, I bought a battery for a 6.3 for $150.00 my price - retail $195.00. Fifteen months later, my price $165.00, retail $195.00. I decided not to question the guy, but it illustrates something, doesn't it ?

Mark, I think your choice of oil is excellent, but then again most modern oils need to be up to par. I use Castrol Magnetite, or Valvoline Semi-Synthetic, but it costs a bit. Timmy, Fuchs is certainly a German name, but the oil need not necessarily come from Germany. As a matter of interest, is anyone influenced by 'attractive' packaging of the container ? BTW, I have reason to believe that from December next year oil manufacturers will only be able to use plain olive green colours when displayed for sale on shelves. :mad: :D

Regards Styria

Oversize
22nd November 2011, 07:20 AM
Styria, talk about over-regulation! What on earth for?? How confusing will it be then?? It's bad enough now with only a couple being the same colour.... :mad:

BenzBoy
22nd November 2011, 07:50 AM
Hi Timmy, be careful with Supercheap Auto. They're not always that super cheap. Of course, you can put Repco in that category as well, and I think that Burson Automotives take the cake - the priciest of all. I buy my oil from a small retailer locally, and I have been able to squeeze him a bit for lower pricing. It's funny though - eighteen months ago, I bought a battery for a 6.3 for $150.00 my price - retail $195.00. Fifteen months later, my price $165.00, retail $195.00. I decided not to question the guy, but it illustrates something, doesn't it ?

Mark, I think your choice of oil is excellent, but then again most modern oils need to be up to par. I use Castrol Magnetite, or Valvoline Semi-Synthetic, but it costs a bit. Timmy, Fuchs is certainly a German name, but the oil need not necessarily come from Germany. As a matter of interest, is anyone influenced by 'attractive' packaging of the container ? BTW, I have reason to believe that from December next year oil manufacturers will only be able to use plain olive green colours when displayed for sale on shelves. :mad: :D

Regards Styria

I believe that applies to cigarette packaging - not to motor oil.
Regards,
Brian

260ebenz
22nd November 2011, 09:12 AM
Hi Timmy, be careful with Supercheap Auto. They're not always that super cheap. Of course, you can put Repco in that category as well, and I think that Burson Automotives take the cake - the priciest of all. I buy my oil from a small retailer locally, and I have been able to squeeze him a bit for lower pricing. It's funny though - eighteen months ago, I bought a battery for a 6.3 for $150.00 my price - retail $195.00. Fifteen months later, my price $165.00, retail $195.00. I decided not to question the guy, but it illustrates something, doesn't it ?

Mark, I think your choice of oil is excellent, but then again most modern oils need to be up to par. I use Castrol Magnetite, or Valvoline Semi-Synthetic, but it costs a bit. Timmy, Fuchs is certainly a German name, but the oil need not necessarily come from Germany. As a matter of interest, is anyone influenced by 'attractive' packaging of the container ? BTW, I have reason to believe that from December next year oil manufacturers will only be able to use plain olive green colours when displayed for sale on shelves. :mad: :D

Regards Styria

Thank you Styria appreciate the advice.

Plain packaging for ciggies will be plain olive green colours not sure if they will real make people quit the ciggies though??

Back to oils I use to use Penrite 20W50 oil in my old 230E it was excellent.

I have yet to try Penrite oil in the 260E either 10W40 or 10W50 is the suitable oil viscosity according to my MB manual.

Last I checked Mobil1 at Super Cheap, Autobarn, Repco was quite expensive but is it worth the $?

Cheers.

Oversize
22nd November 2011, 09:25 AM
No I wouldn't pay the extra for Mobil 1, particularly as a 6.9 needs so much (11L or so)! I wouldn't use the manual as gospel either as what's ok for a new car becomes less relevant as it gets older. I feel 5W and 10W is too thin for an older car and 20W is a little thick for an OHC engine. It'll also rob you of what power it has left.... :eek: At the end of the day whatever eliminates those horrible noises (if any) is probably the correct one to use.

260ebenz
22nd November 2011, 10:21 AM
Surely the MB owners manual is correct in saying the correct oil viscosity for my 260E is 10W40 or 10W50 M103 2.6ltr straight six engine?

260E has terrific acceleration the last almost 4 years I have owned the car.

I am confused now should I be using 10W40 or 10W50 or 20W50?
:confused:

Oil and filter is changed every 5,000kms.

Cheers.

WGB
22nd November 2011, 11:34 AM
I buy my filters two at a time when I make an order from Autohausaz.com.
They cost very little (around the $15 from memory)and have always arrived in a Mann box and include all the O-rings.

I use Redline 20-50 in my 6.9 (Hyperexpensive) and plain old Castrol GTX 20-50 in my 450.

Bill

Oversize
22nd November 2011, 12:40 PM
260ebenz, I'm not saying the manual is incorrect, just that it was applicable when the car was new. Perhaps not so much now, but that's just my opinion. The ideal viscosity (and oil additive package) depends on many factors such as engine type, wear (km), sludge, usage, environment and noises. Your engine will soon tell you if it's not happy.... In your car I'd look at the 10W-40. Personally I wouldn't change the oil and filter every 5K, as I believe it's overservicing. I'd wait till 10K. But my Ford and the 6.9 were originally scheduled for servicing every 15K. Personally I think that's too long, so I try to add a service inbetween at 7.5K. If I tried sticking to every 10K on the Ford and the 6.9s it'd throw the schedule and records waaaay out and I'd have no clue what was due when. Hope that's not too confusing, as I think I just confused myself!! :o

260ebenz
22nd November 2011, 03:33 PM
Thanks Oversize.

BenzBoy
22nd November 2011, 07:10 PM
Just to give you a perspective Tim, my 45oSE has had an oil and filter change every 3000kms all its life. That is, 95 oil and filter changes. Now if we allow $100 (approx) for each change, then the costy has been $9,500. If the changes had been done at every 6000kms then the cost for the past 32 years would be $4750. As the previous owner had sent the car for a full MB service every 3000kms before I bought it he must have spent at least $36,000 on service costs if I allwo $500 per service in today's money. Of course it was probably more...:eek:
Regards,
Brian

WGB
24th November 2011, 01:49 PM
I am not sure that a 6.9 in good condition driven regularly with good oil would suffer any problems with 15,000 km oil change interval due to the dispersal in the 12 litres or so of oil in the system .

Quite different for the ones "less often driven".

Modern Benzes are back to 25,000 km oil change intervals but oil removed from a petrol Benz at 12,500 (I do my own intermediate oil change in my E500 and ML 320 CDI) still looks like new.

What are the wear points anyway - likely all timing chain related - and in an M100 or M117 that is only a few hundred dollars if you replace the chain yourself.

Different with the newer aluminium engines with more precious bores in nikasil or the newer improved coating used in AMG cars and next years 3 litre diesel.

Bill

Styria
25th November 2011, 04:08 AM
I believe that applies to cigarette packaging - not to motor oil.
Regards,
Brian

Hi BenzBoy, precisely my point - it was just all tongue in cheek, and I certainly meant to be sarcastic, having a swipe at "Big Brother' telling us what to do, or better still 'not to do'. I smoked fifty a day, for fifty years, and gave up three and a half years ago without the aid of anti depressants (:D), cold turkey, and all only because I wanted to. Still alive today - in case no-one had noticed. Regards Styria

N.B. Anyway, how many of us are influenced by the packaging of the containers ? :D Plain olive green ? I bet the cars will still go even if we stuck the K-Mart special into our engines.

Styria
25th November 2011, 04:20 AM
Hi Bill, getting back to your fifteen thousand kms. oil changes for your 6.9 - I tried this once, and honestly the brown syrup, that came out like thin, dirty soup, convinced me to never wait that long again. That was Mobil1, at a time when it cost about $65.00 for five liters, but I have changed back to minerals mainly on account of the cost factor.

Just as a matter of interest, Bill, since buying your 6.9 from AMG 69, how many kilometers have you travelled in that car since that time ? Especially, considering that you have your E500 (?) as well as the ML500. Regards Styria

WGB
25th November 2011, 04:43 PM
I would have to check the records but my 6.9 has done about 11,500km in the last four years (Purchased 23-09-07) - without a single "failure to proceed".

In the meantime my ML500 did 65,000 in 3 years, my E500 has done 24,000(In under 1 year - I still love the drive) and that doesn't include the mileage I have driven in my wife's ML320 CDI or my BA Falcon (about 50,000 km in four years).

I drive close to 40,000 km per year but spread over several cars.

Bill

260ebenz
25th November 2011, 07:02 PM
Hi Bill, getting back to your fifteen thousand kms. oil changes for your 6.9 - I tried this once, and honestly the brown syrup, that came out like thin, dirty soup, convinced me to never wait that long again. That was Mobil1, at a time when it cost about $65.00 for five liters, but I have changed back to minerals mainly on account of the cost factor.

Just as a matter of interest, Bill, since buying your 6.9 from AMG 69, how many kilometers have you travelled in that car since that time ? Especially, considering that you have your E500 (?) as well as the ML500. Regards Styria

$65 for Mobil1 what year was that Styria?

I was at Super Cheap today new store at Nelson Bay Mobil1 was $95 for 5ltrs.

Castrol, Shell & Valvoline prices not to bad and Penrite was a good price.

Penrite 15W40 5ltrs recommened for 1990 vehicles onwards was $45.

Helmet
25th November 2011, 07:29 PM
$65 for Mobil1 what year was that Styria?



It was probably 1990 :D

Oversize
25th November 2011, 08:25 PM
As I said I can't justify that price considering it's no thicker than water and would probably cause alarming noises and additional external oil leaks. I'd much prefer to buy middle-of-the-road oil (ie not the cheapest, but not the dearest either)....

260ebenz
25th November 2011, 09:35 PM
Previous experiences with Penrite oils was great.

Going to use the Penrite 15W40 next oil change $45 each I will need two bottles 260E needs 6.5ltrs for an oil change.

I just hope for $45 each the Penrite is not thicker than water I only want to use good oil for my Mercedes.

Oversize
29th January 2012, 08:17 PM
I changed the oil and filter in Blue Flame recently and after jacking it up on a level surface, I dropped the engine sump plug, engine tank plug, oil filter housing and also removed the pipe at the bottom of the oil cooler (Euro). The front spoiler was removed to avoid oil from the cooler going everywhere. I needed three containers and a drip tray, so oil wouldn't cover the barn floor. The 15L container went under the engine sump, a 10L under the oil cooler and another where the filter housing bolts up. The drip tray went under the oil tank. I intended to let it drain over night, but it ended up being a couple of days, as I wasn't sure when it was done last and I had other things more urgent. Any longer and the spiders and dust would've moved in!

Here's the oil filter housing after a clean:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6375.jpg

And all the bits that go with a thorough oil change on a 6.9:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6376.jpg

Note that the oil tank plug has seen better days and will be replaced the next time:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6377.jpg

I bet many of you didn't know there was an 'O' ring in there. And sadly a new one isn't supplied with a filter kit.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6379.jpg

It's almost hard to believe there's a washer on the end of the shaft. Obviously it's been a while since it was replaced:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6378.jpg

Told you:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6382.jpg

And where's the damn washer for the tank plug? Hmmm??

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6380.jpg

This comes in VERY handy:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6381.jpg

And to complete the whole job... One of these:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6370.jpg

And one of these:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6369.jpg

Moderator
30th January 2012, 04:47 AM
Hi Mark, that's excellent work that you're doing, and even better still that you are prepared to spend time to detail your work on topklasse. Thank you. Getting back to your post. I certainly wasn't aware of the internal 'O' ring, so it proves that you never stop learning. One of the things I like to do is to wash out the oil tank with high pressure kerosene, with both drain plugs in place. After about one to two liters, I drain both the tank and the small sump, and then blow out both with compressed air. That however, is just something to satisfy my personal satisfaction. Regards Styria

Oversize
31st January 2012, 08:42 PM
Red Bull has a little gunk in the very bottom of the tank which I'd like to remove. I've used a small seal pick to remove most of it, but I'm sure there'll be more that I can't reach.

Styria exactly how do you achieve "high pressure" kero? Do you have a device connected to an air nozzle that syphons 2L of kero?

I must admit I'm a little hesitant to put kero into the oil tank as I may loosen something and the internal baffles may prevent it being removed. But I'd be even more concerned that kero and contaminents would end up in the engine and that it wouldn't drain back out through the engine sump plug.

BTW the washer with locator tags is missing from Red Bull's oil filter assembly. Does anyone think it'd be a problem without it? I'd suggest the spring would dig into the underside of the oil filter cartridge, but the old one didn't look too bad....

Styria
1st February 2012, 01:56 AM
Hi Mark, I use an engine degreaser gun filled with kerosene. I know what you're saying regarding the dislodging of gunk, especially in the tank, and that is the reason why I can comfortably go through four liters of Kero, just drowning the whole system. By high pressure air blasting the little sump, usually all Kero comes out without any problem. Also consider that the system holds twelve liters of oil - even if there was a slight trace of Kero in the system, that large quantity of oil would take care of it.

Regarding the washer, it'd be best to have one in place - just for peace of mind. Regards Styria

Oversize
7th February 2012, 10:06 PM
Styria I've ordered a new washer and will have to wait until it arrives from Germany.... I also tracked down the 'O' ring in the picture below and have several on order. What concerns me is the wear on the bottom of the housing, where the securing bolt washer has cut into the surface. Should I be worried and risk machining it flat? I'm thinking of just putting it back on and dealing with it later if it leaks...

BTW I just bought an air powered liquid sprayer and plan to have some fun with 4L of kero!

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Red%20Bull/CIMG6570.jpg

Styria
10th February 2012, 03:02 AM
Mark, it would be prudent, and easy enough, to just lightly file the surface. That should do it, with the addition of the new copper washer. Regards Styria

N.B. Hang on, filing may not be all that easy, as the surface appears to be recessed. Is that right ? If so, just use the new washer and see how it pans out. It should be alright.

Oversize
11th February 2012, 05:31 PM
The O rings just arrived; part number A001 997 8548. The tank plugs are N007 604 014 110. And here's the beauty of MB; the ability to still buy parts from the manufacturer, for a car that's over 32 years old!!! Ford and Holden struggle at 5 years..... Over 10 and there's almost no chance.

Styria I believe the recess has been caused by years of overtightening and perhaps the wrong washers (too hard). However the one supplied in the kit also appears to be too hard (steel?). I don't think I've seen copper used on the canister bolt before, as they're usually too wide. Aluminum might be a better choice, as it won't bite into the base of the canister.

It does beg the question; are copper and aluminum washers interchangeable (assuming they're the same size)? I've noticed over the years that MB has used a mixture of both. Or does copper go hard over time and need to be re-annealed??

Oversize
11th February 2012, 07:24 PM
I noticed that the new tank plugs do not contain a magnet like the original. They were probably fitted to catch small metal particles during the early years of the engine's life, but it'd still be nice to have the added security...

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Mechanical/CIMG6589.jpg

Tony66_au
12th February 2012, 08:08 AM
Some cars require that the sump plug be replaced every 2nd or so service and I suspect its because the plugs do get damaged in service.

The alloy plug will be cheaper than brass or copper.

Oversize
13th July 2013, 05:59 PM
Looks like my source for filters has dried up; what now?? What's the cheapest and most reliable source?? Seems like Imparts and HSY no longer stock them and they're not even on back order. I called MB and without a VIN they gave me a price of $150!!!! I don't think the parts guy even knew what a 6.9 was! :mad::confused::eek:

260ebenz
13th July 2013, 06:15 PM
$150 for an oil filter seriously they are joking!

Mann oil filter for the 300SE was $25 last service 2000kms ago.

Oversize
13th July 2013, 09:25 PM
I just checked the Mann Catalogue and they're NOT even listed (even though they list air & fuel)! :mad::(:confused::eek:

https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/mann-filter/home/?iKeys=2.1.0.0.0

Oversize
13th July 2013, 09:59 PM
Autohaus AZ: US$15.75, no tax, but add shipping from the US: Oil Filter (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=mlzhl055lcjsctjsiy4onryb&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1367603@450SEL&year=1979&cid=20@Engine Parts, Seals %26 Gaskets&gid=5340@Oil Filter)

Includes washers and o-rings!

Pricey to ship just one, so order lots.

Lukas

They've gone up since 2011!!! :eek: Thanks Lukas! :cool:

Oversize
13th July 2013, 11:10 PM
Then there's this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110833721386?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Styria
14th July 2013, 02:13 PM
Yes, I have just used my second last filter - again I'll need to instigate some enquiries, although it seems that the high price will remain par for the course. Still, I am keeping my fingers crossed. Regards Styria

Oversize
14th July 2013, 04:52 PM
I wonder what the price might be from MB spares (if they have them)? Then there's the freight....

Lukas
15th July 2013, 01:07 PM
No worries :)

I've been meaning to order more stuff from there - pity the AU$ is now 10c lower :(

Styria
11th October 2014, 07:40 AM
I have resurrected this old thread in the interests of keeping the topic as condensed as possible. As a matter of interest, I have not re-read any of the posts, but I am merely adding details of my latest experiences. As you guys may recall, there were some problems in obtaining new filters, and in the process of trying to purchase some units from the States, I got stung by a fellow in Texas by the name of CHANO, possibly trading as TX Benz Hoarder, Corpus Christi in Texas. That cost me $176.00. I then established contact with a company in the UK, but they sent me M117 450 Filters. So, back to the States.

I found a company selling two versions of the 6.9 Oil Filters, with a price difference of about 60%. I opted for the 'genuine' and more expensive variety, but I suspect that they sent the 'after market' version, but charged genuine. Anyway, I left it at that. Okay, to the gist of continuing the thread.

GB showed evidence of a persistent slight leak from the filter, but I was a bit lazy in getting on top of it, until one day I decided that it was getting too much. Thanks to Oversize discovering an internal 'O' ring at the base of the filter, I decided to make certain that I would have a replacement on hand - I did have an old and unused canister on hand. I should also point out that the oil filter kit supplied (genuine), did not contain the 'O' ring, but the large one only, as well as the two copper sealing washers. When I finally drained oil and removed filter, I found that the large retaining bolt showed evidence of roughness in the area of the internal 'O'ring. See the picture attached (hopefully).

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee123/styria_01/styria_01021/IMG_0544_zps6decd966.jpg (http://s233.photobucket.com/user/styria_01/media/styria_01021/IMG_0544_zps6decd966.jpg.html)

You can see the two bolts side by side. You will also note that the genuine 6.9 bolt is solid, whereas the replacement that I had on hand from a 6.3 engine, does have 'breather' (?) holes, and is hollow. I decided to use the 6.3 bolt in preference as there were no signs of marking on the bottom of the bolt. Questions I have are these:

1. Should it be deemed appropriate for me to have used the 6.3 bolt, and
2. Why should there be any difference in the design features of the two bolts.

Incidentally, the leak has been eliminated, and there certainly do not appear to be any oil pressure issues. Regards Styria

PvD
11th October 2014, 08:28 AM
Styria,
I obtained a what I believe is a genuine oil filet part No 000-180-04-09 which included the washers and O ring for $UA19.55 from MB Cassic Centre USA. Provided the freight costs can be spread over a number of items this is reasonable.
Regards,
PvD

CraigS
11th October 2014, 08:29 AM
Some years ago, I made up a list of filters for the 6.3 - most of which are also suitable for the 6.9. Here is a link

http://www.mediafire.com/download/ddeyokgnvmy/M100.6.3+Filters.pdf

Styria
11th October 2014, 09:37 AM
I believe that applies to cigarette packaging - not to motor oil.
Regards,
Brian

BenzBoy, how so very observant - I tried to crack a 'funny' at the time. Got Oversize in :D Regards Styria

Styria
11th October 2014, 09:46 AM
Styria I've ordered a new washer and will have to wait until it arrives from Germany.... I also tracked down the 'O' ring in the picture below and have several on order. What concerns me is the wear on the bottom of the housing, where the securing bolt washer has cut into the surface. Should I be worried and risk machining it flat? I'm thinking of just putting it back on and dealing with it later if it leaks...

BTW I just bought an air powered liquid sprayer and plan to have some fun with 4L of kero!

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b448/Sixpointnine/Red%20Bull/CIMG6570.jpg

Mark, if you have a look at the bottom of the bolt - my precise reason for using the alternative bolt as detailed in my post. Regards Styria

Styria
11th October 2014, 09:58 AM
Styria,
I obtained a what I believe is a genuine oil filet part No 000-180-04-09 which included the washers and O ring for $UA19.55 from MB Cassic Centre USA. Provided the freight costs can be spread over a number of items this is reasonable.
Regards,
PvD

Peter, thanks for that valuable info. To be perfectly honest, I simply can't work out what is the best to do from time to time. As you know, I have made comments regarding cost of freight, and furthermore, the cost of the filter from the Classic Centre is way below what I have just paid. Go figure - I can't. Regards Styria

motec 6.9
11th October 2014, 11:03 AM
Once I realised Ryco filter was wrong and contacted Mercedes repair business to get proper filter it was $39.00 by the way. I have looked further into it and been advised getting them is not a problem just less supply chains selling them. So Classic Centre, Mb Spares and others to the rescue. :D

Oversize
17th January 2017, 04:22 PM
After a recent oil and filter change on Silver Arrow I noticed that many seem to be missing the large retaining washer that sits above the spring. It's obviously not a critical part, but I'll endeavour to track down replacements as time permits. I bet many of these washers just end up in the waste oil drum.

Oh if you intend to do it properly, a 6.9 oil change isn't a quick process....